Tailoring: Bespoke Tweed Suit
After making many jackets and suits for clients, I finally made a custom suit for myself. To speed up the process I used commercial patterns for my blocks, changing the jacket style and fit to achieve the 1940's/menswear look I was going for. Here you can see the original Burda Style blazer on the left, and my finished coat on the right:
I used traditional tailoring methods like ironworking, pad stitching and hand-sewing to make the suit. I adjusted the patterns to fit my body (sleeve, waist and hip circumference, front and back neck width...), and changed the styling drastically: collar style, pocket placement, added ~3" to overall length, raised the front button and changed it into a 2-button style from a 1-button style, and added a centre back vent.
My tailor friends helped me by taking photos, discussing the fit and adjustments I should make; below you can see the back length adjustment to prevent the vent from gaping.
The interior canvas is padstitched by hand and basted to the upper:
After lining the jacket I adjusted the shape of the collar:
Finishing touches: Handsewn buttonholes.
