MOCHI EMBROIDERY of Kutch, Gujarat
Project Brief
To develop a product using the traditional crafts of Kutch, Gujarat and contemporarizing it.
The aim was to uplift the dying crafts and make people aware of its existence.
Introduction to Craft
Mochi embroidery is an adaptation of the cobbler's stitch which was executed by the mochis or cobblers on leather goods and later translated the medium to fabric.
Traditionally the mochis in Kutch and Saurashtra region used this technique to create glorious textile products for the court, merchants and landowners.
At present it is being done in many parts of the state but the brilliance which was created for regal patrons has become quite difficult to achieve in the present circumstances as today contemporary patrons are no longer able to appreciate the delicacies, cost and time this textile art takes.
Communities Involved
Aari Community has been involved in this craft traditionally, though today it is being practiced by many others for commercial purposes.
Technique
The fabric is usually spread on a frame and the thread is held below the material .The pointed notch of the ‘aar’ (needle) is pushed through the cloth, creating a movement forming series of chain stitches following one after the other.
Motifs
The flexibility of the medium allows varied range of motifs to adorn garments and home accessories in vibrant rich colors. Butis or floral motifs, parrots and peacocks and figurative illustration of maidens embellish the fabric surface with realistic exuberance and verve of nature.
Colours
Color gradations are created by using shades and tints of varied bright hues. The most eminent aspect of this embroidery technique is the quality of depth being created in each form, which is sometimes adorned with tiny mirrors or sequins.
Observations
This craft is done by the women of this community. Women learn this craft at a very young age.
The survival of this craft is completely dependent on knowledge passed down by the adult women in the family.
The knowledge of the craft is an important skill set.
These women embroider their own daily wear and embroidery is a huge part of their daily routine.
This craft consists of chain stitch and its variations.
They prefer using woolen threads and fine needles.
Owing to the intricacy of the work, they use only 2 or 3 ply cotton threads. They are also fond of using medium sized mirrors.
The artisan did the embroidery without the use of knots.
Made templates of the bib neckpiece on paper. Cut the cloth and leather pieces with the use of these templates.
Embroidery:
Drew the design on cloth using chalk. Embroidered all the outlines of the design; filled the necessary parts with the filling stitch. Attached the mirrors.
Leather work:
Made the leather thin by a process called buttering. Made the leather dye, applied it on the leather and left it to dry. Stitched the unfinished side of the leather with a cloth for finishing.
Metal work:
Cut the metal wire into the required lengths and turned them into rings and attached these rings to form chains.
Stuck the embroidered pieces of cloth on leather. Put rivets on the leather pieces and assembled them by attaching the chains. Attached the hook and eye to the chains.
The entire trip was a great learning experience of not only the crafts, but also to adapt to the village lifestyle. The interaction with villagers and craftsmen has made me realize the importance of our traditional crafts. Contemporizing the crafts was the most memorable part of this documentation.
