ਖੱਡੀ
( हथकरघा / Handloom)
The Tale Of Handloom
Dedicated to my Elders
The process of staying connected to our roots involves preserving our heritage and acknowledging the beliefs and skills of our elders. To instill these values in the next generation, it’s important to embrace our culture, traditions, and skills.
Khaddi, or handloom, is a device used to weave fabric. The loom is a part of the apparatus that makes weaving possible. So, a handloom is a big frame used to weave fabric with hands and without any machine. Looking deep into history, the Khaddi profession was embraced by the homes of weavers. Khaddi is made of wood only. Before marriages, orders were sent for weavers to make a fine variety of clothes. From blankets (ਖੇਸ), carpets (ਦਰੀ), and shawls (ਭੂਰੀ / ਲੋਈਆਂ), to stoles and scarves, people used to make a variety of things for the summer and winter seasons.
My great-great-grandfather (Lal Singh Kainth) owned Khaddi and used to weave cloth. The search for my roots took me to Jaipura, Distt. Ludhiana, 1.5 km away from NH1. I met a family who has been running their elders' profession for more than two generations.
Earlier, it was owned by Sarwan Kumar, but nowadays, her granddaughter-in-law, Sardarni Paramjit Kaur (Bibi Ji), and her family make their living in this profession. It is one of the rare and vintage works of Punjab that is on the verge of being lost. Including her, very few people from Punjab are in contact with this skill.
Bibi Ji mastered embroidery in her parents house before marriage. She started working on Khaddi with her in-laws. She learned this skill from her father-in-law, as she was familiar with threads, knots, and designing; weaving clothes seemed interesting and easy for her. She started making her designs on Khaddi.
On remembering her old times, she said the Khaddi profession was a prominent one. More than 25 people worked on 25 khaddis, and 25 people were into embroidery work. They all used to work under her father-in-law's supervision. But, nowadays, only 4 workers are on khaddis and a very small number of women are into embroidery.
During the research, I was unable to find the Khaddi profession in nearby places, and only a few people are into this profession. The advancement in machinery has put handmade work in a laborious situation. People started to leave Khaddi work and went for machine work. Meanwhile, machine work has reduced the work cycle and made things accessible for people. The beneficiary approach of machines was inevitable, which people couldn’t resist, and it resulted in people from outside starting to plant clothing factories in villages too.
Moreover, working on Khaddi was an extreme task, but it was not only related to our history but also a work of art. It takes lots of patience and creativity to make clothes on it. Bibi Ji said it takes more than 3–4 days to make a carpet and several hours to make shawls.
Moreover, Bibi Ji is also offering embroidery work to the women of her village. She is offering a source of income to the ladies who are homemakers and also exploring their creativity.
Despite having so many challenges, they are dealing with good-quality customers and don’t compromise on the quality of the fabric. They have a collection of traditional carpets, shawls, stoles, and some other handmade items.
On August 7, we celebrate National Handloom Day. The main objectives of Handloom Day are to raise awareness of the handloom and to acknowledge the skills and hard work of the community of weavers who work in this field. The nation's cultural and traditional legacy has been preserved by the community of laborers, weavers, and manufacturers in the handloom industry. To improve their credibility and financial security, the day also ensures that weavers and craftsmen are involved and promoted.
Image :
Functional khaddi at their home
Image:
The working process of Khaddi; the shuttle is set inside Khaddi.
Image :
Working process of Khaddi; these fine needles are called needles (ਕੜੇ) through which thread passes and is weaved.
Image:
working process of Khaddi
Image :
working process on Khaddi
Image: A man working on khaddi and preparing stoles for the coming winter; He learned this skill from Bibi ji when he was young.
Image :
Footwork of a man working on khaddi. One needs to constantly peddle these sticks to make the cloth on khaddi.
Image :
Khaddi frame on which cloth is woven. & Close-up of design and fabric
Image:
Prayer Area
Image :
Winder machine; tool for spinning thread over rolls; shuttles with different colored threads.
Image :
Threads, color and connections
Image : Men in action
Image : Working force behind the handloom work; Bibi Ji
Image :
Bibi ji (holding picture of her grand father-in-law, who were the first one in their family to start hand-looming)
Background: Handmade rugs (ਹੱਥ ਨਾਲ ਬਣਾਈ ਦਰੀ) made by her.
Image :
Ladies from her village completing their embroidery work assigned under Bibi Ji
Image : Ladies from her village completing their embroidery work assigned under Bibi Ji
