Can fashion be a political act?
The Vivienne Westwood case
The Historical Relationship between Fashion and Politics
Fashion and politics have always been intertwined, with clothing serving as a means of communication and self-expression. Throughout history, Fashion has been used as a political statement, a tool for social change, and a reflection of societal values.
Early examples of Fashion as a political statement
Early examples of Fashion as a political statement can be traced back to ancient civilizations such as Greece and Rome. In Greece, the draped garments of the chiton and himation were used as symbols of democracy and freedom. In Rome, the toga was a garment reserved for Roman citizens and symbolized Roman citizenship and identity.
Fashion played a significant role in the political upheaval during the French Revolution. The aristocracy's lavish and ornate clothing contrasted sharply with the simple and practical clothing worn by the lower classes. The robes à la française, with their ornate fabrics and excessive decoration, were seen as a symbol of the excesses of the aristocracy. At the same time, the revolutionary tricolor cockade was worn as a symbol of support for the revolution.
The evolution of the relationship between Fashion and Politics
In the 20th century, Fashion became a means of communication and a reflection of societal values. Fashion designers such as Coco Chanel and Christian Dior used their designs to express their political beliefs and to challenge the status quo.
Chanel's boyish, androgynous designs were seen as a rejection of traditional gender roles, while Dior's ultra-feminine New Look was a celebration of femininity and a rejection of the austerity of wartime.
The 1960s and 70s saw Fashion become a vehicle for social and political change. The rise of the civil rights and feminist movements inspired fashion designers such as Yves Saint Laurent and Mary Quant to create clothing that was both stylish and politically charged.
The punk movement of the late 1970s and early 80s also reacted to the political and social climate of the time, with designers such as Vivienne Westwood and Malcolm McLaren using Fashion to express their anarchist beliefs.
Key moments in fashion history that exemplify the political influence of brands
Throughout history, there have been many key moments where fashion brands have significantly impacted politics and society. The 1960s saw the rise of the "youthquake," with young people rejecting the conservative values of their parents and embracing a new, more liberal way of life. Fashion brands such as Mary Quant and Biba were at the forefront of this movement, creating clothing that reflected the youthful, free-spirited spirit of the time. In the 1980s, the AIDS crisis brought about a new wave of activism and political engagement. Fashion designers such as Giorgio Armani and Calvin Klein used their influence to raise awareness of the disease and support those affected. As a result, the red ribbon became a symbol of the fight against AIDS, and fashion brands such as Benetton and American Apparel used their advertising campaigns to promote safe sex and awareness.
Fashion Brands as vehicles for political ideologies
How fashion brands communicate political beliefs can vary, from subtle messages hidden in designs to overt displays of support or opposition. Fashion brands often utilize symbols, colors, and designs to convey political messages, whether intentionally or not. The role of Fashion in creating and reflecting societal values is significant, and it is important to examine how fashion brands influence political ideologies. By studying the relationship between fashion brands and political beliefs, we can better understand these brands' impact on society and the messages they send to consumers.
Fashion as a form of communication
Fashion has long been recognized as a form of communication, conveying various messages about social status, identity, and cultural values. However, beyond these more individualistic expressions, Fashion also has the potential to communicate broader political ideologies. From the colors and symbols used in garments to the slogans and messaging associated with specific brands, Fashion has the power to communicate political beliefs in a way that is both powerful and accessible to a broad audience. For example, a simple T-shirt with a political slogan can convey a message to anyone who sees it, regardless of their cultural background or level of education. This accessibility makes Fashion a potent tool for political messaging.
How fashion brands communicate political beliefs
Fashion brands often communicate their political beliefs through advertising campaigns, clothing designs, and collaborations with other brands or organizations. For example, in 2018, luxury fashion brand Gucci released a pre-fall collection inspired by vintage Hollywood glamor but also included clothing items with a political message. For instance, one sweater in the collection featured the words "Gucci Loved" with the "o" replaced by a red heart, which was interpreted as a reference to the logo of the Bernie Sanders 2016 presidential campaign. Another sweater in the collection read "My Body My Choice" in reference to reproductive rights.
Fashion brands also communicate their political beliefs through brand values and mission statements. Outdoor clothing brand Patagonia's mission is to "build the best product, cause no unnecessary harm, use business to inspire and implement solutions to the environmental crisis." This mission statement communicates the brand's commitment to environmental activism and sustainability, a political stance. In this way, fashion brands can use their values and mission statements to align themselves with political ideologies and influence societal values.
The role of Fashion in creating and reflecting societal values
Fashion has always been an integral part of society, and its influence goes beyond just clothing. It has the power to shape and reflect societal values, including political ideologies. Fashion brands play a crucial role in this process, often communicating their values and beliefs through their products and marketing campaigns. For instance, fashion brands can promote inclusivity and diversity by featuring models of different races, sizes, and abilities in their advertisements. In addition, by using sustainable materials and production methods, they can advocate for environmental protection. Their audience can then adopt these values and beliefs and become part of their own values, ultimately shaping and reflecting societal norms.
Fashion Brand Activism
Fashion brand activism is a phenomenon that has emerged in recent years, where fashion brands take a stand on social and political issues through their messaging and campaigns. This form of activism has been used by fashion brands as a means to engage with consumers and to demonstrate their commitment to social causes. The impact of fashion brand activism can be significant, as it can help to raise awareness about important issues and bring attention to marginalized groups. However, it is not without its drawbacks and criticisms, as some argue that fashion brands are simply exploiting social causes for their own profit and that their activism is not genuine.
Examples of fashion brands taking a stand on political issues
Fashion brands have increasingly been taking a stand on political issues in recent years, using their platforms to voice their opinions and promote social and political causes. One notable example is Nike's Colin Kaepernick ad campaign, which sparked controversy but also gained widespread attention and support for its message of racial equality and social justice. Another example is the fashion industry's response to the #MeToo movement, with designers and brands showing solidarity with survivors of sexual assault and harassment by incorporating the movement's symbols and messages into their collections.
The impact of fashion brand activism on societal values
Fashion brand activism has had a significant impact on societal values, influencing both consumer behavior and broader cultural conversations. By taking a stand on political issues, fashion brands have been able to align themselves with consumers who share their values, building loyalty and trust. At the same time, fashion brand activism has also helped to raise awareness and spark dialogue on a variety of issues, from human rights and environmental sustainability to racial justice and gender equality. While the impact of fashion brand activism may not always be immediately measurable, its ability to shape cultural norms and inspire change should not be underestimated.
The potential drawbacks and criticisms of fashion brand activism
As with any form of activism, fashion brand activism has potential drawbacks and criticisms; one criticism is that some brands may use activism as a marketing strategy rather than genuinely supporting a cause. As a result, it can lead to accusations of "woke-washing," where a brand is accused of using activism as a way to improve its image without actually making meaningful changes. Additionally, some critics argue that fashion brand activism can be superficial and fail to address the root causes of social issues. Another potential drawback is that fashion brands may not have the expertise or experience needed to effectively address complex social issues. Despite these criticisms, many argue that fashion brand activism can still have a positive impact by raising awareness and sparking important conversations.
The Ethics of Fashion Branding and Political Messaging
The utilization of political messaging by fashion brands as a means to connect with their consumers raises ethical concerns. The potential consequences of using Fashion for political messaging are numerous, including the risk of alienating customers who do not share the same political beliefs. Fashion brands must also consider the ethical considerations of taking a political stance and the importance of transparency and authenticity in their messaging. Brands that are seen as insincere or opportunistic in their political messaging risk backlash and loss of trust from consumers.
In addition, the use of political messaging by fashion brands can lead to accusations of appropriation and exploitation of political movements for commercial gain. Critics argue that fashion brands are using political movements and symbols to create a marketable image and capitalize on social movements rather than genuinely supporting them. The ethics of fashion branding and political messaging are complex, and fashion brands must carefully consider the potential consequences of their actions.
The potential consequences of using Fashion for political messaging
Fashion has a tremendous influence on society, and with great power comes great responsibility. Using Fashion for political messaging can have significant consequences, both positive and negative. On the one hand, it can raise awareness of important issues and encourage positive change. On the other hand, it can also lead to controversy and backlash if not executed properly. Fashion brands must consider the potential consequences of their messaging and ensure that their actions align with their values and goals.
One potential consequence of using Fashion for political messaging is that it can alienate certain consumers who do not agree with the message being conveyed. This can lead to a loss of business and a damaged reputation for the brand. Additionally, it can create division among consumers and contribute to a polarized society.
However, when done correctly, using Fashion for political messaging can also lead to increased support and loyalty from consumers who share the same values. It can also generate positive media coverage and raise awareness of important issues, leading to real change and progress.
Fashion brands must carefully consider the potential consequences of their messaging and ensure that they are willing to stand behind their beliefs, even if it means facing criticism or backlash.
The ethical considerations of fashion brands taking a political stance
Fashion brands that take a political stance must carefully consider the ethical implications of their messaging. They need to ensure that they are not simply using political issues as a marketing strategy to increase profits without truly caring about the cause. Brands must also consider the potential harm that may arise from their political messaging, such as promoting harmful stereotypes or perpetuating inequalities. Furthermore, fashion brands must take responsibility for their role in promoting certain political messages and recognize their potential impact on society.
The importance of transparency and authenticity in fashion brand messaging
In addition to the ethical considerations of taking a political stance, transparency and authenticity are also critical factors for fashion brands engaging in political messaging. Consumers today are highly attuned to corporate social responsibility and are more likely to support transparent brands about their values and actions. Therefore, brands must communicate their values clearly and authentically to their audience. It can include being transparent about their production methods, labor practices, and environmental impact and demonstrating a consistent and genuine commitment to the causes they support. In doing so, brands can build trust with their consumers and create a more meaningful and lasting impact on society.
The Future of Fashion Branding and Political Influence
The world continues to change, and so does the role of Fashion in politics. In recent years, we have seen an increasing number of brands using their platforms to advocate for social and political issues. This trend is likely to continue in the future, with more and more brands becoming involved in activism and using their influence to make a difference.
One emerging trend in fashion brand activism is the rise of sustainable and ethical Fashion. As consumers become more aware of the impact of their clothing choices on the environment and on people, many are seeking out brands that align with their values. This has led to a growing number of fashion brands prioritizing sustainability and ethical production practices in their designs.
Another potential future trend in fashion branding and political influence is the use of technology. With the rise of different digital platforms, brands now have even more opportunities to connect with consumers and share their messages. As a result, we may see more brands using technology to create immersive experiences that allow consumers to engage with their brand values in new and exciting ways.
Ultimately, the future of fashion branding and political influence will be shaped by the ongoing changes in our society and culture. As consumers become more socially and politically aware, they will demand more from the brands they choose to support. Whether it's sustainability, social justice, or other issues, fashion brands will need to stay in tune with these changes and adapt their strategies accordingly.
Emerging trends in fashion brand activism
As Fashion continues to evolve, so does its ability to impact society and influence political movements. One emerging trend in fashion brand activism is the increasing use of sustainable and eco-friendly materials in fashion production. Brands are recognizing the importance of reducing their carbon footprint and taking steps to create more environmentally responsible products. Additionally, there is a growing movement towards promoting diversity and inclusivity in the fashion industry, with brands such as Fenty Beauty and Savage X Fenty leading the way. As consumers become more conscious of the impact of their purchases, fashion brands are responding by prioritizing ethical and socially responsible practices.
The potential for increased political influence in Fashion
As the world becomes increasingly politicized, there is no doubt that fashion brands will continue to play a significant role in shaping societal values and beliefs. With the rise of social media and the ability for brands to communicate directly with their consumers, Fashion has become a powerful tool for political messaging. This trend is likely to continue, with fashion brands becoming even more vocal and visible in the political landscape. As new generations of consumers come of age, they are demanding more from the brands they support, and Fashion is no exception. The potential for increased political influence in Fashion is significant, and the brands that are able to navigate this complex landscape with authenticity and transparency will be the ones that thrive in the future.
The implications for society and the fashion industry as a whole
As Fashion and politics continue to intersect, the implications for society and the fashion industry as a whole are significant. The increasing political influence of fashion brands raises questions about the role of corporations in shaping societal values and political discourse. It also highlights the potential power and responsibility of consumers in supporting or rejecting brands based on their political stances.
World is becoming increasingly connected, and fashion brands must consider their messaging carefully and be prepared to take a stand on important issues. It will require a deep understanding of the cultural and political contexts in which they operate and a commitment to transparency and authenticity in their messaging. Ultimately, the future of fashion branding and political influence will depend on the ability of brands to navigate these complex issues and engage with consumers in a meaningful and socially responsible way.
Vivienne Westwood, British stylist, designer and activist who created the punk style.
In the fashion field since 1971, when, together with Malcolm McLaren, future manager of the Sex Pistols, she opened a shop in London which quickly became the point of reference for the punk generation, the new anti-establishment culture made of music, images, fashion, inspired by the fifties.
Since the 1980s she has established herself as one of the major international fashion creators. Her inspiration drew sap and strength from her love for history, painting and social and political commitment.
An eclectic and non-conformist personality, she spent her life dedicated to activism.
She was a woman with a mission, to change the world, at least a little, to make it a better place. For her, the enemies to fight were conformism, social inaction, the obtuse and reckless exploitation of nature and flattery.
Born on 8 April 1941 with the name Vivienne Isabel Swire, in Tintwistle, Derbyshire, into a family belonging to the English working class, from a very young age she was passionate about art, literature and bespoke clothes.
In 1962 she married Derek Westwood from whom she took her surname and with whom she had a son, Ben. They separated after a short while. In 1965 she met Malcolm McLaren with whom she began a working and romantic relationship, from which her second son, Joe, was born. It is to the "golden couple", as they were soon nicknamed, that we owe the birth of punk, a phenomenon that, through music, aesthetics and provocative behaviors, wanted to subvert the system and break the rules.
In 1971 they opened their first "Let it Rock" shop in London, which aimed to recall the atmosphere of 1950s rock'n'roll, which was reflected in the vintage clothes and records. The shop changed its name and décor several times over the years and, soon, Vivienne Westwood had started making original garments for sale: in 1972, it became “Too Fast To Live Too Young To Die”, with leather biker clothes studded with zips; in 1974 it transformed into “SEX” and the style became fetishistic and erotic; in 1976 it took the name of "Seditionaries" and, through the do-it-yourself aesthetic and the use of waste materials, created the so-called "Clothes for Heroes".The heroes for Malcolm and Vivienne were the outcasts who were supposed to start the revolution.
“You can't push people to change things by making them feel humiliated and offended. You have to make them feel fabulous before you get their change,” the designer argued. Each new identity of the store corresponded to a collection of clothes, the result of her creativity and his provocative attitude.The path in the world of fashion was very difficult for her, independent from luxury groups, far from style standards and with a past marked by rebellion and huge economic problems, she was forced to endure ridicule from those of that glossy world had been part of it for a while.In 1983 she met Carlo D'Amario, an Italian entrepreneur in love with her creative prowess and her vision of things, who boosted her boutique's finances by giving her the opportunity to do what she loved most: sewing, creating and being inspired.In that period, the designer spent a lot of time in Italy, where she produced “Mini Crini”, the 1985 collection that revolutionized the female silhouette: women abandoned the futuristic aesthetic of the 1980s for very short crinoline skirts and exposed lingerie, creating a provocative and playful effect at the same time.
Vivienne Westwood's name was on everyone's lips and, while in England it was still difficult to be seduced by her creative talent, the international press was in raptures and models dreamed of working with her. However, the company was still struggling from an economic point of view, for this reason, D'Amario convinced it to launch "secondary lines", authorized collections granted under license to other companies and sold at a lower price and to a wider audience. wider.
Everyone wanted to wear a Vivienne Westwood item and the idea worked.
Her success has always depended on her approach to creation, on that idea that fashion is a political act.
The long work on the body, the idea of dressing heroes and the stories that his clothes can tell have revolutionized the world of fashion. She created garments that express a message and it is no coincidence that during her fashion shows themes such as Scottish independence, the corruption of politics, opposition to Brexit, gender neutral clothing, sexual freedom and, above all, concern towards climate change and the call to action.
Vegetarian for ethical reasons, on the front line for the defense of the environment and alongside Greenpeace in the "Save the Arctic" campaign and the animal rights association PETA, Vivienne Westwood has become the protagonist of acts of militancy that are often out of the ordinary.
At the closing ceremony of the 2012 London Paralympics, for example, she showed up on a float with a huge flag with the words "Climate Revolution" and donated a million pounds to the Cool Earth association, which works to safeguard rain forest.
In 2015 she drove a white tank towards the home of the then British Prime Minister, David Cameron, in protest against the polluting and harmful practice through which natural gas is extracted.She gradually handed over the artistic direction of the company to her husband Andreas Kronthaler who had been one of her students. The difference in status and age initially fueled many rumors and inferences. But the couple continued to walk together and remain united.Vivienne Westwood was a non-conformist rebel, a unique talent who entered the world of fashion "to destroy the word conformity"; a designer who considered clothes as an expression of herself and part of a path that leads to revolution. A bold woman who hated mediocrity and spoke to us about freedom through the crinoline, tartan and a restless punk aesthetic. She protested in favor of Julian Assange, the founder of Wikileaks. She appeared dressed in yellow in front of the Old Bailey court in London, being locked up in a giant cage, like a canary, while using a megaphone, she shouted her anger towards the United States, which requested her extradition.A woman with a strong character, determined not to be stopped by opposition or the logic of power. She was the living example that you can be many things at once (punk queen, fashion icon, activist) and that coherence and freedom are priceless.A documentary film was made about his life by Lorna Tucker, Westwood: Punk, Icon, Activist. She left the earth on December 29, 2022, until the end he continued to do the things she loved, designing, working on his art, writing his book and changing the world for the better.
She had just founded the Vivienne Foundation, a non-profit company, with the aim of raising awareness and creating tangible change by working with NGOs, based on four pillars: climate change, stopping war, defending human rights and protesting against capitalism.
Her final warning was:
"Stop climate change. This is a war for the very existence of the human race. And that of the planet. The most important weapon we have is public opinion. Become a freedom fighter."
