Shoe making

  • PROCESS
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  • First steps of shoe making is getting the pattern ready.
  • Meanwhile, nailing the inner sole is done. This is done by soaking the leather for 5 minutes in water, than nailing it on the last. The leather takes a couple of days to fully dry and take the form of the last. When this is done, the inner soul is ready to be trimmed.
  • Taking the nails off.
  • This is how the inner sole looks after it's trimmed.
  • Cutting the patterns is the next step. Choose your leather carefully and wisely.
  • The scariest part for me, the sewing of the pieces.
  • These are the pieces of my upper. One is already fnished, the other is half way sewn.
  • When both uppers are finished, it's time to do the lining. 
  • After sewing in the lining, you're ready to do the lasting. The beginning is crutial because you have to make sure that the upper is not off-centered from the last. I also tied the eyelets together so that they would stay aligned while lasting.
  • After this, the toe box and the counter are pasted between the lining and the upper.
  • Once that's done, the final lasting of the upper is done, glued, and trimmed.
  • After ALL the nails are pulled out, the shank is glued on and then the whole bottom is covered with a piece of leather or cork. I chose cork because it's very easy to sand away.
  • Petronio's glue is a very important tool for shoe making. (not the best glue though)
  • Applying the petronio's to the outer sole.
  • After gluing and burnishing the sole, it's time to make the stacked leather heels.
    This is done by gluing them with water-based paste and then piercing the pieces with an awl to make holes for the wooden pecks. 
  • This is done for each layer of the heel.
  • I had to use nails at the end because I broke two awls :B
  • After the heels is done, the final finishing follows.
  • Brushing the heel with water makes it easier to trim and work with. After the trimming is done, you use a piece of glass to sand away the heel and make all the layers flushed with each other. Then sand it with fine sand paper or a sanding block to get it nice and smooth.
  • After tha sanding is done, a burnishing iron and leather polish is used to give the final finishing.
    Here is a good picture to show the difference between before and after the burnishing is done.
  • Once all that's done, you're ready to put the laces on!
  • And viola! You've got new shoes!