Ikat is an elaborate dying process done with silk or cotton fabrics. The result is a piece of cloth bathed and glittered in colorful patterns. More often than not, Orissa Ikat is associated with sarees. Ikat patterns are dyed and bonded into the threads before the cloth is weaved. This differentiates it from the Tie and Dye process where the fabric is woven in the first place.
Origin and History
The technique which is known today as Ikkat had its origins in different parts of the world such as South East Asia, Central Asia, South America, and West Africa. Ikat is one of the most ancient techniques of dyeing fabrics. The term “Ikat” itself is a derivation from the Malay word mengikat which means to tie or to bind.
As per sources of information, Orissa Ikat dates back to the 12th century when artisans from the Patan region of modern-day Gujarat migrated to Orissa and carried forward the craft.
Varieties
Orissa Ikat mainly showcases three varieties:
Single Ikat is a process in which either the warp yarns or the weft are dyed.
The second procedure of combined Ikkat has both warp yarns and the weft being used together in different parts of the fabric.
Double Ikat involves both warp and weft threads tied in a greatly precise manner so that when the threads from both axes mesh with each other at certain points to show up a completed pattern.
The Making
Orissa Ikat uses a process called `resist dying’. Essentially the core fabric materials used in the Orissa Ikat are silk or cotton. The tools required for carrying out the process are – Pick, scissors, dye vats, rubber bands, or other tying material to resist dye.
The process starts with the warp or weft threads being bundled and bound with rubber bands which can resist the action of dye colors. The bundles, then, are tied to a wooden frame and put into the dye vat. Here they are given repeated dye treatments to generate bands of pattern. Once the dying process is completed, then starts the complex and intricate process of weaving these threads into a stable piece of fabric. The entire process involves almost an entire family’s participation in different aspects.
Traditionally colors from plants, flowers, and barks of trees were used as dyes in the process. But in recent times, the increase in demand for Orissa Ikat has fueled the need to use chemical dyes as well.
Faces Behind the Fabric
While it is an ancient craft, it is dominated by the people from the Meher community of Orissa. Radhashyam Meher, Kunja Bihari Meher, Chaturbhuja Meher, and Krutartha Acharya are some of the leading exponents of the craft who have helped showcase it on the world stage.
Ikat Exports Pvt. Ltd. based in Bhubaneswar, Orissa is probably one of the largest producers of Orissa Ikat handloom fabric and other products.
